Makaha Beach: the Birthplace of Big Wave Surfing
Before Waimea Bay, Mavericks, Nazare, and Jaws, the home of the big wave surf scene was on the West Side of Oahu at a break off of Makaha Beach. The name Makaha is Hawaiian for “fierce” or “savage” and the beach earned this name from an infamous group of bandits who lived in the Makaha Valley and were known to rob those who passed by. In the story of surfing, this wave plays a major role in the evolution of Hawaiian wave riding. Here is a brief history of the birthplace of big wave surfing.
The Beginning
Before Makaha Beach made it onto the surf scene, Waikiki was the surf mecca of Hawaii. Its gentle, turquoise waves were famously ridden by Duke Kahanamoku and showcased to the world on postcards of the sun-soaked paradise. In 1937, Wally Froiseth and John Kelly first spotted large waves at Makaha during a school field trip. Later that week, the two trekked out west and began surfing the uncrowded break. As whispers among the surf community slowly brought big wave chasers, a shift in not only the surf capital, but surf culture took place.
Rise to Fame
Throughout the 1940s, big wave surfing pioneers like George Downing, Woody Brown, Buzzy Trent, and Fred Van Dyke joined these original wave chasers on the Westside. At Makaha, they pushed limits and set the foundation for the blossoming sport of big wave surfing. In the early 1950s, John Lind, founder of the Waikiki Beach Club, started the Makaha International Surfing Championships and brought attention among the surf community to the spot. However, it wasn’t until 1953, when Scoop Tsuzuki took what is known as the first big wave picture ever, that Makaha became known around the globe. The picture captured Woody Brown, Buzzy Trent, and George Downing charging down the face of a 15 ft wave. This photo circulated the world and changed all expectations and the sport of surfing forever. The stoic gliding of Duke Kahanamoku had evolved into a thrill-seeking, daredevil sport.
The 1950s were the hay days of Makaha. Surfers and surf-obsessed people flocked to the beaches to be a part of the new big wave scene. In the 1960s, the spot's popularity began to fade with the discovery of more big waves and breaks on the North Shore of Oahu. As the scene shifted up to the Northside of the island, Makaha received less traffic but remained a popular surf destination. In 1969, Greg Noll was said to ride the biggest wave ever at Makaha. It was described as a 30 ft bomb, and the last hurrah for the famous wave charger. Starting in the 1970s, the sport of surfing would change again with the influx of Australian and South African surfers and their aggressive surf styles.
Today
Today, the surf mecca of Oahu is the North Shore, however, Makaha remains the host of a few esteemed surf competitions. One notable event is the Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic, also known as the Waterman's Olympics. This annual surf contest is held in honor of surf legend and Makaha lifeguard, Richard “Buffalo” Keaulana. It is famous for the diverse display of wave riding, Aloha spirit, and the participation from well-known west-side surf families like the Desotos, Van Giesons, and the Keaulanas. Another competition is the Rell Sunn Menehune Surf Championships. This contest focused on educating the community, especially children, about the environment, sportsmanship, and helping to combat juvenile delinquency. The history of Makaha's reputation as the first big wave surf destination remains present in the attitude and surf culture surrounding the break.
Did learning about big wave surfing history at Makaha Beach inspire you to hit the waves? Remember to check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App here for anytime, anywhere surf coaching.
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