Duke Kahanamoku: the Grandfather of Surfing
If you’ve done your surfing research, then you know the name, Duke Kahanamoku. He’s often referred to as the grandfather of surfing and most famously known as the man who brought surfing, the ancient Hawaiian sport, to the world. An entire book is needed to give credit to the impressive life of Duke (Waterman by David Davis is a great option), but for those who want the highlights, here is a brief history of the most important man in surfing.
The Beginning
Duke, full name, Duke Paoa Kahimu Mokie Hulikohola Kahanamoku, was born on August 24th, 1890 in the outskirts of now Waikiki, Oahu. He spent his childhood at the beach swimming and surfing with his Paoa cousins. During his upbringing, Hawaii was hit with an economic depression and tense political tensions between the native Hawaiian people and the haoles (strangers).
The Surf and Swim Phenomenon
Duke first made world news in 1911 during an Armature Athletic Union (AAU) Hawaii event when Duke ended up beating the world record (at the time) for the 100 m freestyle by 4.6 seconds. Word got out about this super-fast Hawaiian swimmer and, despite speculation from AAU heads in other states, he traveled to Stockholm, Sweden for the 1912 Olympic games. There he won gold medals in the 100m and 400m freestyle events.
After his initial discovery and success at the Olympics, Duke took his incredible athletic talents international. While touring his phenomenal freestyle and ocean swim abilities, he brought surfing to the world as well. In 1912 Southern California got its first taste of an activity that would soon define the laid-back beach lifestyle Californians are known for. Crowded beaches watched as Duke rode waves with ease and skill, silently sparking a new obsession with the sport. In 1914, though Australians had witnessed surfing before, Duke's knowledge of surfboard shaping and the ocean helped develop the sport as a nation uniting pastime. At "Freshie Beach" his statue and a surfing walk of fame with the original board he rode commemorate his lasting impact.
In between training and competing, Duke found himself moving to California where he landed a movie contract with Paramount Pictures. Despite finding several movie roles, Duke had a hard time paying the bills for two reasons. First, he couldn't receive money for swimming because of AAU rules. Second, his casting was restrained due to the stereotyped ideas of the role of darker-skinned men in Hollywood. To get by, he worked as a lifeguard and mechanic between movie jobs. When living in Newport Beach, he and a few friends helped save the lives of some boatmen who had capsized by using their surfboards to paddle out and bring the men safely to shore. This act enacted the use of surfboards as standard equipment for water rescues across the US.
Duke's Olympic career lasted 21 years. He was 42 years old when he played as an alternate for the US water polo team in the 1924 Los Angeles Olympics. After an unfortunate circumstance of getting sick during the trials for the 1928 Olympics, Duke soon after moved back home to Oahu. Throughout this time, he won numerous medals and competed with both the US swimming and water polo teams.
The Ambassador of Aloha
When back in Oahu Duke had a difficult time finding work. With the help of some friends, he was able to lease two service stations where he pumped gas and washed cars. He never let his situation get him down and during this time he found a new passion for surfboard design. With the help of fellow swimmer, surfer, and friend Tom Blake, Duke experimented with ancient and modern surfboard designs. For years to come, he would ride his creations with Blake around Oahu.
In 1934 Duke ran for Honolulu County Sheriff and won! For the next 26 years, he ran a tight ship keeping Honolulu on the right track during times of wartime scandal. One of his most exciting accomplishments was building a new jail.
In 1940 he met the love of his life, former dancer instructor Nadine Alexander. They met on the beach in Waikiki, and within a few months, they were married. They lived happily on Oahu, frequenting the Outrigger Canoe Club and staying involved with the community.
In 1959 Hawaii officially became a state. Duke’s position as sheriff was taken away and he became the official Ambassador of Aloha, welcoming politicians when they arrived and exploring the island with celebrities. In his later years, Duke swam, surfed and kept active around the island until he died in 1968 from a heart attack.
To this day, Duke is an icon of the islands, swimming, and surfing. Throughout his life, he watched the fall of the Kingdom of Hawaii and the territory's eventual transition to statehood. Duke was the first person in both the swimming and surfing hall of fame and, the first major surf competition, The Duke Kahanamoku Surfing Invitational, held on the North Shore of Oahu was named in his honor. As an ambassador of Hawaii, he brought surfing and the aloha spirit to the world.
Did reading about Duke Kahanamoku inspire you to hit the waves? Remember to check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App here for anytime, anywhere surf coaching.
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