A Surfer's Guide to Wetsuits
Cover image: @buellsurfshop / instagram
In most places around the world... aside from the tropics, a wetsuit is a must-have in any surfers tool kit. Wetsuits brought wave riding to cold-water destinations like Canada, Ireland, South Africa, New Zealand, and spurred the global interest that lead to the millions of surfers we see today. Wetsuits have evolved drastically from the prototypes in the early 1950s and now include many shapes, sizes, and thicknesses for any surf destination imaginable. Here is a surfer's guide to wetsuits.
What is a Wetsuit
A wetsuit is a layer of thermal material that one wears to keep warm while swimming, surfing, or participating in activities in cold water. The most common material for wetsuits is neoprene. Neoprene is polymerized chloroprene, in simpler terms a synthetic rubber, essentially made from fossil fuels. To be frank, they are not the best for the environment, however, there are some exciting new environmentally friendly wetsuits and wetsuit recycling programs available today.
Some History
Jack O’Neill with his early wetsuit vest
Despite debate about the true inventor of the wetsuit, it is certain to have first arrived in California in the early 1950s. Those notable in the debate over the wetsuits' invention and introduction to the mainstream are Hugh Bradner, the Meistrelll Brothers with Bev Morgan, and Jack O'Neill.
In the early 1950s, Hugh Bradner was working on developing a protective layer using neoprene to keep people warm in cold water. His invention, however, was made for men in the Navy and not with surfers in mind.
Around this time, the Meistrell brothers, who were lifeguards and avid surfers in Southern California, wanted a way to stay in the water longer during the cooler winter months. They heard about Bradner's work and joined forces with Dive n Surf shop owner, Bev Morgan, to create a neoprene surf suit. At first, they didn't sell, but after a few years, these early wetsuits gained popularity and evolved into the Body Glove brand.
Finally, and most prominent in the history of the wetsuit, is Jack O'Neill. In 1952, O'Neill opened the first surf shop in the Sunset District of San Francisco where he sold surfboards and bodyboards to the early cold water surf pioneers in the area. In the same year, he found inspiration in the neoprene foam flooring of a passenger plane and went to work developing his very own neoprene surf suit. By the 1960s, wetsuits were the primary products sold from both his San Francisco and Santa Cruz Surf Shop Locations. O'Neill Wetsuits took over the market and became the biggest name in the industry.
How They Work
The science behind how wetsuits work is surprisingly simple. Water enters the wetsuit and creates a thin layer between the neoprene and your skin. Your body heat then warms this layer of water to body temperature or just below body temperature. The neoprene or other material then insulates this layer of water, protecting it from the colder water outside and keeping you toasty warm.
The best way to keep warm is to keep this same layer of water in your wetsuit for as long as possible. Unfortunately, that’s not always the circumstance, and in the process of duck diving, getting tossed, or whatever the waves have to throw at you, new water will enter and push the warm water out. This is called flushing, and on cold days it is a shocking wake-up call.
Wetsuit Thickness
Wetsuits come in different thicknesses. As one may assume, the thicker a wetsuit, the warmer you will be. Thickness is measured by millimeters and is typically written in a series of two numbers, for example, 4/3mm of 4:3mm. The first number is how thick the material is around your chest and back. The second number is the thickness around your arms and legs. It is important to figure out the right thickness for the type of water you’ll be surfing in. Here is a helpful chart:
Types of Wetsuits
Wetsuit Top or Jacket
Usually, between the 1 – 2.5mm range, these are long-sleeve pullovers or zip-ups that you put over your bathing suit to keep your core warm. They can also be worn under a full-body wetsuit for extra heat.
Shorty
Shorties have short legs... like you're wearing shorts. They can have a vest, short-sleeve, or long sleeve top portion and keep you a bit warmer than just the wetsuit top. They typically come in 2 mm – 3/2mm thicknesses.
Long Johns or Leggings
These are pretty much just wetsuit pants. They just cover your legs and can be nice to keep your lower body warm and out of the sun.
Short-Sleeve
This is a full-body wetsuit with short sleeves. They are nice for keeping your core body warm and allowing coolness on your exposed arms.
Full Suit
This is the most common wetsuit you’ll see in cooler waters. It covers your arms, legs, and core and is guaranteed to keep you toasty warm.
Hooded Full Suit
Hooded full suits only come out in super cold conditions. This is a full suit with an attached hood to pull over your head, and an added bonus is you will look a lot like a seal.
Wetsuit Accessories
When a wetsuit doesn’t quite cut it, here are some wetsuit accessories that can keep you extra warm for those extra chilly waves.
Booties
Coming in all shapes and sizes, these adorable little feet warmers look like thick black socks with a grippy sole. They can come in a thickness range of 1mm – 8 mm and make a huge difference in keeping you warm. Check out these booties from Buell.
Gloves
If your hands get cold, gloves are a surfing necessity. Coming in either fingered or mitten shapes, they keep those fingers from freezing. They may feel a little funky, but they beat white, stiff fingers any day. Buell has quality gloves of varying thicknesses and shapes.
Hoods
If you don't want to invest in a hooded full suit, you can also purchase an attachable hood. A warm head keeps your brain and body surf-ready. Keep that noggin toasty with one of Jamie's favorite Buell hoods.
Jamie O’Brien’s Favorite Wetsuit
Looking for one of the best wetsuits on the market? Check out the JOB collection from Buell wetsuits. Buell wetsuits come in all shapes, sizes, thicknesses, and colors, so you’re not only warm, but you have the best quality and performance guaranteed.
Now that you know what kind of wetsuit you need, it’s time to hit the waves. Remember to check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App for anytime, anywhere surf coaching.
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