7 Must Know Facts about Surfing History

For any wave riding fanatic, surfing history fun facts will not only help you understand the sport but increase your coolness level to an 11.

1. The origin of surfing

To date, there is still debate on where exactly surfing was invented, and the truth is most likely no one will ever know. There is early evidence of humans surfing, or, wave riding in Polynesia, Peru, and Western Africa, however, almost all agree that modern surfing, the sport we know today, started on the Hawaiian Islands.

2. “Kapu” was a set of rules and taboos used to govern surfing

In early Hawaiian culture, surfing was more than just a leisure activity or pass time. It was associated with political and social status. Kapu, among other governing, determined where people could surf, how their boards were made, and how big they were. Only royalty rode “Olo” boards, which are twice as long as the longboards we have today.

3. Surfing was a form of courtship

In ancient Hawaii, everyone surfed. Kapu didn’t allow men and women to eat or work together, so surfing was the spot to mingle and show off. The sexual association with surfing was even included in surf chants with double entendres.

4. The first written account of surfing in Hawaii was in 1777

Aboard Captain Cook’s ship, Resolution, William Anderson wrote about observing the native Hawaiians' wave sliding. Although Anderson seemed to be impressed by the activity, the American Christian Missionaries that traveled with him saw surfing as sinful.

5. “The Duke” brought surfing to the world

In the late 1800s, native Hawaiian and Olympic swimmer, Duke Kahanamoku, brought surfing to California and Australia. His impressive tour and skills in the waves gave wake to a peak of interest across the globe, driving it to be the popular sport we know today.

6. Mark Twain has surfed

In Mark Twain’s book, Roughing It, he includes a story of him trying to surf in the Hawaiian Islands in 1866. He admits he failed miserably and got a mouth (and stomach) full of ocean water.

7. We can thank Australians and South Africans for making surfing a pro-sport

In the late 1960s, surfing saw an increase in popularity. People from all over the globe tuned in to competitions and travelled to Hawaii to watch the best of the best. However, it wasn’t until 1975 when a group of Australians and South Africans began to revolutionize the sport and culture, making shock waves in the Hawaiian surfing scene (not all were welcome). With this new era of surfing came the International Professional Surfers (IPS) which was the first governing body of established professional surfing. For a more in-depth story watch “Bustin Down the Door.”

For more information on the history of surfing read “The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing” by Peter Westwick and Peter Neushal.

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