Types of Surf Breaks
As you have probably noticed from surf mags, videos, and personal experience, no two waves are the same. Factors like bathymetry, swell, wind, tide, and more influence the shape and quality of each wave. Despite the large variety, natural waves are classified into four categories: beach break, reef break, point break, and river break. Here is a quick breakdown of each type of surf break.
Beach Break
Beach breaks form when swells hit a shallow, sandy bottom or sand bar. They are the most common break and can range from small and gentle to big pounding barrels. The same beach can even have both depending on tide and swell. Due to the shifting sand bottom, the quality and shapes of these waves change frequently throughout the year.
Beach breaks are the best for beginners just getting their surf legs. The consistent, gentle, straightforward waves are the ideal learning ground.
Some famous beach breaks are; Hossegor (France), Ocean Beach (San Francisco), Supertubos (Portugal), and Puerto Escondido (Mexico).
Reef Break
Reef breaks form when waves break onto shallow rocks or coral reefs. They are most common in tropical locations, however, they are found all over the world. Unlike beach breaks, rock and coral don't shift, so specific breaks remain consistent in shape and quality. Reef breaks produce some of the most powerful and dangerous waves. Their big, pumping surf can crash onto shallow sections making a trip over the falls result in gnarly scrapes at the very least.
When waves are big, reef breaks are best reserved for experienced surfers, however, on small days they can produce perfect rollers for beginners looking to practice.
Some famous reef breaks are Pipeline (Oahu), Teahupo’o (Tahiti), and Mavericks (California).
Point Break
Point breaks are some of the most desired breaks in the world. They form when a swell wraps around a point and creates a long peeling wave. The longest point break in the world is in Chicama, Peru, and when the stars align, it can pump out mile-long lefts. It holds the world record for most turns done on a wave. A staggering 34... imagine the leg burn.
Most point breaks are best for intermediate and experienced surfers, however in some cases gentle point breaks are ideal for beginners.
Some famous Point breaks are Jeffreys Bay (South Africa), Raglan (New Zealand), Rincon (California)
River Break
River breaks form when a rushing current hits a very specific bottom contour to create a surfable wave. They can be permanent or occasional depending on the time of year, conditions, and typically form at the mouth of a river, in the mountains, or in the middle of the jungle.
Surf river breaks with caution. They can be shallow, fast, and don’t offer much room for maneuvers. Check out our very own Jamie O'Brien surfing the Waimea Bay river break.
Some more famous river breaks are Snake River (Wyoming), Eisbach River (Germany), and St. Lawerence River (Montreal)
Did reading about the types of Surf Breaks get you frothing? Remember to check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App here for anytime, anywhere surf coaching.
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