The Proper Surf Wipeout
Wipeouts are to surfing like tomatoes are to Italian food, no session or dish would be complete without them. They come with the learning process, and each one will teach you a new lesson. However, not all wipeouts are the same, and when you have a gnarly one, there is the chance for damage to yourself and your surfboard. Luckily there are tips and tricks to help make wipeouts as safe as possible. Here is a quick guide to a proper surf wipeout.
How To Prevent a Gnarly Wipeout
Wipeouts happen, but there are ways to prevent the super gnarly wipeouts that may result in serious injury and board damage.
Stay in your Comfort Zone
If you are watching the surf and it’s bigger and heavier than anything you’ve ever gone out in before, maybe take the day off or find another break to explore. The worst surf injuries occur when people get in over their heads. There is always fun in pushing yourself, however, be smart about trying new things. When in doubt, don’t go out.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings
Unfortunately, most surf breaks don’t have a soft sandy bottom. Most, break over reef or rocks, meaning a fall can result into some serious cuts or injuries. Before paddling out, check the surroundings for shallow reefs, rocks, or any other hard or sharp thing you wouldn’t want to fall on.
Falling Properly
Inevitably you will wipeout. It’s part of the sport. Here are some tips to help you fall like a champ.
Fall Away from your Surfboard
Surfboards are great fun until they hit you during a wipeout. They are hard, heavy, and not to mention have sharp fins. Bumps, bruises, scrapes, and even serious injuries are a result of coming into contact with your board during a wipeout. When you fall, try to push yourself away from your board, and, if possible, fall back into the wave.
Side note: don’t kick your board away from you, you may be kicking it directly at another surfer.
Fall Flat
One of the most dangerous things a surfer can do in a wipeout is dive into the water headfirst. This is a great way to break your neck.
Also, don’t jump in feet first. When surfing in shallow reefs or shallow sandy bottoms, this is how you get cut or sprain your ankles.
The safest fall is falling backward and flat. Land butt first and arms out wide to try and minimize how deep you end up in the water.
Don’t Panic
This is harder said than done. It may seem scary if you fall and get tossed around by a wave. Your body may go into overdrive, and you may panic a little bit, but the best thing to do is try your hardest to relax. The more you fret, the more oxygen your body uses, and the less time you will be able to hold your break. During most wipeouts, you won’t be under water for more than 10 seconds.
Try this exercise. To help train your body to relax the next time you wipe out, try and stay underwater for 10 seconds. The action of holding your breath in this high-stress situation will help you train your body to force relax and help you mentally prepare for bigger, gnarlier wipeouts.
Hands Before Head
Make sure to cover your head when popping up out of the water. This will prevent painful bumps that can cause injury from hitting your board on the way up.
Take a Break
If you have a bad wipeout and you need a moment to catch your breath, paddle to the channel, to shore, or safely out of breaking waves to rest for a moment and gather yourself. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared to get back out and try again.
Bonus
Check out some of the gnarliest wipeouts from Jamie O’Brien’s YouTube Series
Does watching gnarly wipeouts make you want to charge waves? If so remember to check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App here for tips and tricks to improve your surfing.
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