A Surfer’s Guide to Reading Waves
Learning how to read a wave is one of the most important skills as a surfer. Determining how, when, and where is the best to position yourself for takeoff will make the difference between catching 20 waves in a session or catching 5. Here is the surfer’s guide to reading waves.
How Waves Break
The first thing to know about reading a wave is identifying how the wave is going to break. This is extra important for deciding which way you turn after taking off. A wave breaks right, left, in an A-Frame or a closeout.
Right Break
A right-breaking wave is peeling right from the perspective of the surfer. If you are looking at the wave from the beach, it will break towards the left. This is the preferred break direction for most regular footers (right foot back when standing on the board).
Left Break
A left-breaking wave peels to the left from the perspective of the surfer on the wave. From the beach, it looks like it is breaking towards the right. This is the preferred direction for goofy-footed surfers (left foot back on the board).
A-Frame
An A-Frame or peak-shaped wave breaks at a point in the middle producing two surfable faces on either side, a right and left. This is great because two surfers can ride one wave going either direction.
Closeout
A closeout is a wave with no surfable face, instead, it breaks or closes at the same time. You can catch a closeout wave, but you’ll only have a second or two before the entire thing is whitewash.
Different Parts of a Wave
Another helpful tool is the ability to identify the different parts of a wave. This helps you communicate to other surfers about riding and reading waves.
Lip
The lip holds a lot of the wave’s power and is the top part that pitches or falls over when the wave breaks.
Face or Shoulder
This, for the most part, is the surfable part of the wave. The face is the unbroken section where a surfer rides away from the whitewash and towards the unbroken shoulder. It is where one looks to measure the height of a wave.
Curl or Pocket
The curl is concave-shaped and the steepest part of the wave’s face. Because this section is vertical, it acts as a ramp, and many high-performance maneuvers like big turns or ‘snaps’ and airs happen in this part of the wave
Tube
This is where you GET BARRELED! Some waves, given the right conditions, form a hollow cylinder that more advanced riders can surf inside of.
Peak
The peak is the highest part of the wave and the first part of the wave break. Identifying the peak is the key to catching a wave.
Impact Zone
The impact zone is the area where the wave crashes down onto the water below. In big surf you do not want to be caught here.
White Water or Whitewash
This is the white foam that forms after the wave breaks.
How to Position Yourself to Catch a Wave
To get the best ride possible, it is essential to identify the peak of a wave. Catching the wave at this point will allow for most time on your feet.
1. As you're sitting on your board, look out towards the horizon, away from the beach. Look for a bump in the water and try to identify the highest point, aka the peak. This point is where the wave first breaks, and has the most energy making it easier to catch.
2. The sooner you can identify the peak of a wave, the better chance you have at catching it. Paddle toward the peak, and if you get there before it breaks (the ideal situation) you will have a longer ride. If the wave is already breaking, paddle towards the shoulder that hasn’t broken yet
3. Once you're in position, turn yourself around so you are perpendicular to the wave, and start to paddle towards shore.
Which Way to Catch the Wave
A-Frame
Reading a wave also helps you decide which direction to go. For example, in an A-Frame situation with two surfers paddling for the wave, make sure to communicate and ask them which way they're going to avoid confusion. This is done by asking if they are going right or left.
Breaking Speed
The speed that waves break is determined by the steepness of the angle away from the peak. The steeper the angle, the slower the wave will break. If the wave is less steep, the wave is closer to a close-out shape and will break much faster. Depending on your skill level, you can choose which direction to go.
The Shoulder of a Closeout
In some closeout situations, a left or right shoulder is left open providing a surfable face. This is harder to identify, but once you become familiar with reading waves, you can spot this situation and catch more!
Want to learn more about reading waves? Check out the Jamie O’Brien Surf App here for exclusive anytime, anywhere surf coaching advice.
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